Hi my beauties! In this weeks blog and video I am answering 10 questions about skin care that I have received on my Youtube Channel in the comments. As you all know I am a busy practicing cosmetic dermatologist and full time mom of 2! This means I don't get to answer the comments on my video's nearly as often as I want to!
So today I will share my personal expertise as well as personal experience to answer 10 questions. We will be diving into skincare questions as well as laser rejuvenation based questions.
As always you can check out my corresponding video for more in depth information:
1. The Vitamin C Conundrum: Can it Oxidize?
Yes, it can oxidize, and that’s perfectly normal. L-ascorbic acid remains stable and effective through several of the first stages of oxidation. L-ascorbic acid, is the most impactful form of Vitamin C. That is why I formulated my Vitamin C-FK Brightening Complexwith a 12% L-ascorbic acid. It is known for its potency and ability to deliver the highest bioavailability, meaning it is the most effective version of Vitamin C for skin absorption and collagen production, but it is also sensitive to heat, light, and air. It's important to choose formulations that can change color (because you know that it isn't packed full of preservative and chemicals that you don't need) but it is also important to always check expiration dates. Pro tip: Keep your vitamin C in a cool, dark place to maintain its potency- so yes refrigeration can help.
2. Adapalene: A Budget-Friendly Alternative to Retinol
Adapalene is a fantastic option for those seeking acne treatment while still benefiting from anti-aging properties. Originally available by prescription, adapalene has recently become over-the-counter, making it accessible for many. Notably, it’s a great choice for younger individuals or those on a budget aiming to combat early signs of aging and keep their skin clear. In my video I explain how it works and what to expect.
3. Post-Laser Care: What MDAiRE to Use?
My go-to products in the MDAiRE line include the NMF Intense Barrier Cream and NMF Hydrator Barrier Repair . These help restore the skin barrier and accelerate recovery after procedures. They are gentle and void of potential active ingredients that you want to avoid post procedure. I also really like the Alastin Nectar post procedure as well.
4. Skincare in Your 20s: Starting Smart
For those in their 20s, the most important skincare ingredient to include in your routine is sunscreen—not just on sunny days but year-round, including while working out indoors! Alongside SPF, I recommend incorporating a retinol product (over the counter variety is a good start) carefully to maximize benefits without irritating the skin. Using a gentle approach, such as starting slowly and gradually increasing frequency, is key to retaining skin health without the discomfort that often accompanies retinoids. Another skincare product that I recommend starting in your 20's is a well formulated eye serum. The skin under the eyes is the thinnest on the face, making it one of the first areas to show signs of aging. Over the years, I've found that a well-formulated eye serum is critical for maintaining a youthful appearance here. In fact, my Regenerative ECM Eye Complex is our best seller because it is hard to find an eye serum that is truly impactful. I know skincare can get expensive so for those looking for more affordable options, something as simple as applying Aquaphor to lock in moisture overnight can still make a difference in keeping this delicate skin hydrated and help fight the signs of aging.
5. Retinol Use Around the Eyes: Proceed with Caution
Many patients and comments ask me if it’s safe to use retinol around the eyes. While I love retinol for its anti-aging benefits on other parts of the face, the under-eye area requires extra caution due to the skin's sensitivity. I've seen how retinol can easily lead to irritation here, so instead, I often recommend eye serums containing gentler ingredients, like peptides and DNA repair enzymes. These not only nourish the delicate skin but also help in reversing some of the early signs of aging without the risks that come with stronger actives.
Ok now on to some great questions I have received more focused on laser rejuvenation!
7. Comparing Laser Treatments: Picosure vs. Fraxel Dual
When it comes to laser treatments, I love both Picosure and Fraxel Dual, and each has its strengths. Picosure is fantastic for its quick pulses that generate less heat, making it safer for all skin tones and ideal for those concerned about hyperpigmentation. However, for deeper rejuvenation and better anti-aging results, Fraxel Dual is my go-to. It not only improves texture but also effectively addresses pigmentation issues. From my experience, patients tend to be more satisfied with the comprehensive results Fraxel offers. It is important to note that not all providers are trained enough to know how to adjust the settings with Fraxel Dual to use on darker skin tones so it is important to ask questions. I discuss this in greater detail in the video.
8. Low-Dose Accutane for Anti-Aging, Can I still get laser treatments?
There’s growing interest in using low-dose Accutane for its anti-aging benefits, and I’ve seen dermatologists become more open to this approach. While it can help smooth the skin, it’s important to proceed with caution, especially when combining it with other treatments like lasers. Accutane can make the skin more sensitive, so I always recommend a thorough consultation to ensure it’s the right choice for your skin type and goals. However you can still do laser rejuvenation procedures while using low dose Accutane.
9. Laser Treatments for Stretch Marks
Stretch marks are a common concern in my practice. I’ve found the best approach is using lasers like the Vbeam for newer, red and purple marks, and then turning to Fraxel to smooth out older, more textured stretch marks. It’s important to know that multiple sessions are typically required, but I’ve seen patients achieve significant improvements when treatments are tailored to their needs.
10. Treating a Dark Vermillion Border
Hyperpigmentation along the vermillion border of the lips is another issue I often address. The vermillion border is just the area right around your lips. It’s critical to be careful with laser selection as well as provider selection here, as using the wrong laser or someone who is less trained can actually worsen discoloration. I’ve had the best results with lasers designed to treat pigmentation specifically, while still preserving the natural look of the lips. It’s all about choosing the right tools for the job to ensure the best outcome.
In wrapping up, I can’t stress enough how important personalized skin care is. The key to navigating the complex world of aging and skincare is choosing the right ingredients and treatments for your unique needs. Whether you’re just starting your skincare journey or are well into it, I’m here to help guide you with the latest insights and solutions that work. I hope these questions helped some of you make informed decisions.
